Thursday, March 7, 2013

Biscayne National Park


We visited Biscayne National Park in mid-February, 2013.  Some of the facilities on outlying keys were still closed due to damage caused by Hurricane Sandy, but that did not affect our enjoyment of the park.  Because 95% of the park is covered in water and easily accessible by boat, this is one of the few national parks without an admission fee.  


Convoy Point

The Dante Fascell Visitor Center is located at Convoy Point less than 10 miles east of Homestead.  It's unusual architecture is based on the Biscayne House of Refuge that was in operation from 1876 until 1926, first as part of the United States Lifesaving Service and then the US Coast Guard.  The theater, bookstore, museum and concessionaire are located on the upper floor with access provided by both an elevator and a ramp.  Restrooms are located on the lower level.  Several video presentations are available for viewing in the theater.  We watched a very informative documentary filmed just weeks after Hurricane Andrew made landfall on Elliot Key in 1992 and the excellent Biscayne National Park: A Spectrum of Life.

Dante Fascell Visitor Center

We only saw one manatee on our entire trip and that was from a distance.  Most activities at the park require being on or in the water.  Kayaks can be rented from the concessionaire and they seemed to be very popular.  Immediately south of the park is the Turkey Point Generating Station owned by Florida Power & Light.  The station consists of two oil/gas units, two nuclear units, and a combined-cycle gas combustion turbine.  Construction and license permits have been issued for two additional nuclear units.  The station has altered its operation over the years in order to protect the environment.  Instead of dumping waste heat into the bay and disrupting the ecological system, a series of canals have been created that allow the heat to dissipate into the atmosphere.  This has also created an ideal environment for the American crocodile.  Since the first census was conducted several years ago, over 3,000 crocodiles have been tagged on the site and approximately 800 are current residents.

Manatee in the marina

Kayaks on the bay

Turkey Point Generating Station

A quarter-mile boardwalk and trail leads from the visitor center to the end of the jetty adjacent to the harbor channel.  A Gumbo Limbo tree is located just off the beginning of the trail.  It is often jokingly called the Tourist Tree because of its red, peeling bark.  The trail starts as a concrete sidewalk, but quickly turns into a bridge along the edge of the bay before turning into a conventional boardwalk and then a gravel path.  At the end of the jetty, visitors can view several varieties of birds that have colonized the narrow strip of almost-land that was created when the channel was dredged.

Gumbo Limbo tree

Boardwalk across the bay

Boardwalk on the jetty

Gravel path on the jetty

Colonial bird protected area adjacent to channel

Twenty-three miles to the Miami skyline

Boardwalk along the calm waters of Biscayne Bay

Rear porches of the Dante Fascell Visitor Center

Boca Chita Key

The park concessionaire provides several excursions including daily boat trips to Boca Chita Key.  Tickets for the Boca Chita Lighthouse Adventure are $35.00 per person and may be purchased online or at the gift shop in the visitor center complex.  After boarding the boat at the visitor center marina and listening to the safety briefing, we proceeded slowly through the no-wake zone before entering the open water of the bay.  The boat has all the required USCG equipment for a commercial passenger vessel including a pair of self-inflating rafts on the roof.  However, it is unlikely they would deploy if the boat sank as they are about 12 feet above the keel and the depth of the bay averages seven to ten feet.  There are places where the depth is approximately 15 feet, but the first rule of survival in case the boat sank was just to stand up!  The actual reason to stand up was that many of the personal flotation devices were stored in the center seats and the rest were stored under the overhead.  None of them could be reached while we were seated.

The Boca Chita

A pair of Royal Terns

Brown Pelican

Thirty-five acre Boca Chita Key was privately owned by industrialist Mark Honeywell from 1937 to 1945.  He had the lighthouse, chapel, house and barn built.  Only the foundation is left of the house.  The lighthouse is on the wrong side of the island to be a useful navigational aid and there are shallow reefs several miles east of the key that would still be dangerous even with a properly located lighthouse.  There is a picnic area and restrooms with saltwater toilets and no sinks on the northern end of the key.  The southern half of the key was not developed by Honeywell and contains a ½ mile trail that loops from near the restrooms back to the harbor.

The never-operated Boca Chita Lighthouse

Seagrass meadow

Boca Chita harbor

Miami skyline 17 miles away

Key Biscayne (left 11½ miles), Cape Florida Lighthouse ( white column 10 miles),
and Miami Beach (right 17 miles)

Chapel

Palm bent by Hurricane Andrew, but not defeated

Clear Atlantic waters

The foundation is all that is left of the Honeywell house

Beginning of trail around south end of the key

Coquina outcrop

Sands Key across Lewis Cut

Return trail on west side of key

Red Mangroves

Ornamental lighthouse from the trail
(Key Biscayne is visible behind the left palm tree)

We had a great day at the park and need to plan another visit to explore more of it.

The concessionaire website is http://www.biscayneunderwater.com.
The park website is http://www.nps.gov/bisc/index.htm.

Wednesday, March 6, 2013

Canaveral National Seashore


Just south of the city of New Smyrna Beach is the Apollo Beach or North District of Canaveral National Seashore.  The park was established in 1975 to protect and preserve 24 miles of pristine seashore along a barrier island.  We visited the park in mid-February, 2013.  The entrance fee is $5 per vehicle per day.  A new visitor center with a theater, gift shop, offices and rest rooms opened in November 2012.  The movie about the seashore was excellent as usual and highlighted some of the more unique aspects of the park such as the nesting area for sea turtles.  


Apollo Visitor Center

Beach


We decided to start our tour with a drive to the southern end of the 6.5 mile park road.  At this point the island is fairly narrow which allowed views of Mosquito Lagoon and the Atlantic Ocean from the same location.  After parking at area 5, we crossed the dune on the provided boardwalk.  Recent storms had damaged the accessible ramp on the beach end of the boardwalk, but the stairs remained in service.

Mosquito Lagoon

Looking up the beach from the boardwalk

Atlantic Ocean from the boardwalk

Looking down the beach from the boardwalk

Royal Terns

Sanderling chased by waves


Driving north, we stopped at parking area 4 for a closeup view of the vegetation on the dunes.

Prickly Pear and Saw Palmetto

Saw Palmetto atop the dune

Turtle Mound

Continuing our journey north, we stopped at Turtle Mound.  This prehistoric site is believed to  consist mostly of discarded oyster shells, although no extensive archaeological excavations have been conducted.  Several theories have been offered as to why the TImucuan would build a mound of refuse that was about 50 feet high and 600 feet long.  One theory is that it was a navigational landmark and another is that it provided limited protection from hurricanes.  At one point, a commercial orange grove was planted here.  The few trees remaining produce a bitter orange compared with the Indian River groves across Mosquito Lagoon.  

Boardwalk from parking area through the saw palmetto

Elevated boardwalk allows access without destroying the mound

Mosquito Lagoon with Visitor Center buildings on left

Ocean view from atop the mound

The mound consists of millions of oyster shells

The elevated boardwalk climbs to the top of the mound

Bitter oranges along the boardwalk

Timucuans launched their canoes on Mosquito Lagoon near here

Eldora

The Eldora loop road is one-way with four parking areas.  We stopped at parking area 6 and walked the trail to the fishing dock near parking area 7.  

Trail to the fishing pier

Fishing pier on Mosquito Lagoon

Mosquito Lagoon shoreline

Brown Pelican

Another view of the lagoon

We then drove to parking area 8 near the community of Eldora.  The village was founded around 1877 as a steamboat stop.  The agricultural and fishing community struggled for years due to a variety of environmental conditions including hurricanes and winter frosts.  By 1900, the village was shifting from farming and fishing to winter seasonal homes for the wealthy.  Today, the foundations are all that is left of most of the village.  In 1980, the park service determined that the Eldora House was beyond repair and demolished the structure.  Today, the site has been completely reclaimed by native vegetation.  Fortunately, the State House did not meet the same fate due to the dedicated work of the Friends of Canaveral.  Today it stands as a museum to the community and is usually open on weekends depending on the availability of volunteers to staff the site.  One of the back rooms has been converted into a small theater for viewing an 18 minute video depicting the history of the community.

Broad walkway to Eldora

Side road to the former site of the Eldora House

Northern end of the Eldora State House

View of Mosquito Lagoon from the State House

Front of the Eldora State House

Rear of the Eldora State House

Trail back to the parking area

Our short stay at Canaveral National Seashore did not allow time to visit Castle Windy, another shell midden nor did we have time to stroll along much of the beach.
The park website is http://www.nps.gov/cana/index.htm.

Tuesday, March 5, 2013

Sunrise on New Smyrna Beach


We stopped in New Smyrna during our mid-February, 2013, trip to Florida and  I took a few pictures before breakfast.  The wind noise was so objectionable that I muted the audio portion of the video below.





A sea gull makes a cameo appearance

The city's visitor center website is http://nsbfla.com/.