American Travel Journal: Great Smoky Mountains Railroad

When planning our early October, 2012 weekend trip to the North Carolina side of the Smokies, we decided to include a trip on the Great Smoky Mountains Railroad from downtown Bryson City, NC to the Nantahala Outdoor Center. The weather forecast was for cool temperatures with overcast skies and a chance of rain. In spite of this, we chose to ride on one of the open air cars. These cars provide better views and allow for better photographs due to limited number of side posts and the arrangement of the bench seats. These cars have been converted to have seats facing outward toward "picture window" openings in the side walls. Very few of the people on our car chose to sit for any significant amount of time, but instead stood at the open windows watching the scenery.

View from open-air car Fontana

From the depot, the route heads southwest and crosses the Tuckasegee River within just a few blocks before a twisting climb out of the valley. It follows U.S. 19 for about 1½ miles along a broad curve just outside town. Where U.S. 19 merges with U.S. 74, the railroad veers off to follow Lower Alarka Road for about 2½ miles. It then follows Grassy Branch Road to the shores of Fontana Lake.

Bryson City Depot

Crossing the Tuckasegee River

After crossing the Little Tennessee River on a through-truss bridge, the line follows the western shoreline of the Nantahala River embayment of Fontana Lake. Beneath the low hanging clouds of mid-morning, the lake surface was completely calm.

Confluence of the Nantahala River (right) with the Little
Tennessee River (ahead and left) on Fontana Lake

Glass-like reflections

Fog continued to shroud the mountains for most of the trip

More reflections along the Nantahala River section of Fontana Lake

Our train continues along the shore of Fontana Lake

Just above the transition from river to reservoir, the Nantahala Outdoor Center comes into view. The excursion continues up the river another five miles to a quarry that has been in continuous operation since before the civil war. Just past the quarry, U.S. 74/19 crosses to the west side of the river. The train continues another mile to a passing siding where the engine is uncoupled from the south end of the train, runs around the train on the siding, and couples to the north end of the train. The entire process to switch the locomotive from one end of the train to the other takes about fifteen minutes. The train then returns down the river to the N.O.C. where passengers have an hour to eat and explore the area.

Wesser Falls (Class VI rapids)

Top of Wesser Falls

A canoeing competitor navigates the first gate

Engine 1751 runs around the train

Nantahala Falls is really a Class III rapids

Once everyone is back aboard, the train returns to Bryson City. The entire excursion lasts about 4½ hours. Ticket prices for 2012 range from $49 to $92 depending on the level of service. A season pass is also available. Online food prices are not honored on the train, so planning ahead will save some money.