We decided to spend a day traveling around the north end of the Big Island of Hawaii during our February 2014 visit. Our first stop was at Pu'ukoholā Heiau National Historic Site. This site marks the location where, at the suggestion of a kahuna or priest, King Kamehameha I had a luakini heiau or sacrificial temple built to gain the favor of the war god Kūkaʻilimoku. Measuring 224 by 100 feet, the temple was built without mortar and entirely by hand in less than a year. The stones were brought from the Pololū Valley by use of a 14-mile human chain involving thousands of warrior laborers. Once the temple was completed in 1791, Kamehameha invited his cousin Keōua, the ruler of the eastern side of the island, to Pu'ukoholā for a peace conference. Upon landing, Keōua and his party were killed by Kamehameha's warriors and their bodies were used to dedicate the temple. Having gained control of the entire island of Hawai'i, Kamehameha set out to conquer the rest of the islands with Maui falling in 1794 and O'ahu in 1795. Kamehameha I became the first king of a unified Hawai'i in 1810.
The visitor center for the historic site is located on the ocean side of Kawaihae Road, Hawaii route 270, about ½ mile northwest of the junction with Queen Kaahumanu Highway, Hawaii route 19. A paved parking area of sufficient size is labeled for one-way traffic with the exit entering the neighboring Spencer Beach Park. The visitor center houses an information desk, several exhibits, a small bookstore and a video theater. Selection buttons for six videos ranging from the 1½ minute "Parker Ranch" to the 27 minute "Boyhood of Kamehameha I" allow visitors to make a selection without having to wait for a specific start time. As is customary for National Park Service films, the writing, acting, cinematography and production are first class. Adjacent to the visitor center are restroom facilities with running water.
Leaving the visitor center, a free cell phone audio tour provides narration for the ½ mile loop trail that swings past the Pu'ukoholā Heiau as well as the older Mailekini Heiau before dropping down to the beach to traverse a short section of the Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail before climbing back up to the visitor center.
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| Parking area |
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| Visitor Center |
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| Plaque on the visitor center wall |
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| Ocean view from the visitor center |
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| The loop trail is paved |
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| Pu'ukoholā Heiau |
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| Due to the fragile nature of the heiau, access is only allowed for Native Hawaiian cultural activities |
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| Five hundred year old Mailekini Heiau was used as a fort by Kamehameha I |
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| Mailekini Heiau in the foreground with Pu'ukoholā Heiau on the hilltop |
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| Palm trees dot the beach area near the ancient harbor |
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| Replica double-hulled canoe |
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| The purpose of this wandering wall is unknown |
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| A portion of the Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail as it enters Spencer Beach Park |
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| The loop trail and the theater end of the visitor center |
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| Looking back at the Pacific Ocean from the end of the trail |
Admission to Pu'ukoholā Heiau National Historic Site is free.
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