Saturday, June 24, 2017

Visitor Center - Guilford Courthouse National Military Park


On March 15, 1781, only two months after the Patriot victory at the Battle of Cowpens, the Patriot and British armies met again at Guilford Courthouse in what is now Greensboro, North Carolina. In what would become the largest battle of the Southern Campaign of the Revolutionary War, Major General Nathanael Greene deployed his 4,500 Patriot troops in three lines against about 1,900 advancing British forces.

Before giving his men an opportunity to eat breakfast, Lt. General Charles Cornwallis marched his British troops over 10 miles from his camp on the Deep River to Guilford Courthouse by way of the Salisbury Road. Arriving about noon, the weary and hungry troops formed lines and marched into battle. As the battle proceeded, flanking troops on both sides broke off to fight skirmishes in the woods somewhat removed from the main battle. At one point when the battle seemed to be a stalemate, the Patriot cavalry charged directly into the middle of the British lines. In an effort to thwart the Patriot charge, Cornwallis ordered his artillery to fire grapeshot directly into the charging cavalry with the full knowledge that he would kill many of his own men as well. The advance was halted and, shortly, the Patriots began an orderly retreat from the field.

In the 2 ½ hour battle, the Patriots suffered losses of just over 250 killed or wounded, while the British lost over over 500 or one-quarter of their southern army including twenty-nine of one hundred officers. Upon hearing of the battle, Member of Parliament Charles James Fox made the following remarks in the House of Commons:
We have often asserted that so much domestically and internationally depends upon subduing the rebel forces in the southern colonies. But now news of another disaster, Guilford Courthouse. Gentlemen, this war is bleeding us white. We may have won this piece of ground in North Carolina, but another such victory would ruin the British Army.
Based on efforts of David Schenck and the non-profit Guilford  Battle Ground Company beginning in the 1880s, the Guilford Courthouse National Military Park was established in 1917. Without Schenck's efforts, it is doubtful that the park would exist. However, his interpretation of the battle resulted in a much smaller area being preserved than would have been desirable. Monuments were placed at convenient locations instead of accurate ones. Although the exact location of the courthouse has been lost, more recent archaeological studies show that the battle extended well beyond the boundaries of the park.

The visitor center contains an information desk, bookstore and giftshop, museum with Revolutionary War artifacts, restrooms and two theaters. The smaller theater hosts a 10-minute narrated description of the battle with the movements of military units depicted on a map. This excellent presentation is made at 15 and 45 minutes after the hour.

The larger theater has seating for about 70 people although I was the entire audience. A 32-minute battle reenactment entitled Another Such Victory is shown on the hour. Although this 2001 film meets the exacting technical and historic standards of the park service, it includes some actors breaking the fourth wall to speak directly to the audience describing their reasons for fighting and some of the emotions they felt. There was nothing to indicate that these monologues were from diaries or letters of the participants until late in the film when General Lord Cornwallis is writing a letter and wondering if his actions are having any positive effect upon winning the people of the Carolinas to the British cause. The closing scenes described what happened after the battle to some of the individuals who stepped out of the action. If you like actors speaking directly to the audience, this is the documentary for you. I felt it broke up the flow of the story and was disappointed in its use.

The staff at the information desk was very helpful as they provided a weather forecast and directions to a parking lot that isn't locked at 5 PM so I could continue to tour the battle site on foot after hours. I visited the park in June 2017.

Approaching visitor center

Visitor Center entrance

Museum entrance

Uniforms and other artifacts

Various weapons

View of a portion of the battlefield from the museum

Small theater room

Large theater

Bookstore

Souvenirs

More books

Clothing for sale

Entry to the park is free. The visitor center and tour road are open from 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM daily.

The park website is https://www.nps.gov/guco.

Sunday, June 11, 2017

Benton Falls - Cherokee National Forest


Benton Falls is a 65-foot high fan-shaped waterfall on Rock Creek in the Chilhowee Recreation Area of Cherokee National Forest in southeast Tennessee.

Unless you like to drive rutted gravel mountain roads, don't trust Google to route you to the falls. To reach the recreation area on a paved road, you'll need to be on US route 64. From the US 64 and US 74 junction east of Cleveland, Tennessee, drive east on US 64 for 14.8 miles. Turn left at the brown informational sign marked for Scenic Overlooks, Chilhowee Recreation Area and Benton Falls Trailhead. This left turn is about 100 yards past the turn for the Ocoee District Ranger Station. Although there was not a street sign when I visited, this is labelled as Oswald Road on topographic and recreational maps. Drive up Oswald Road for 7.3 miles to the Chilhowee Recration Area. Along the way up Chilhowee Mountain, there are several overlooks with magnificent views. At the sign for the recreation area, turn right and follow the paved road to the day use area. Stop at the fee station to pay the $3 per vehicle per day fee and then park in one of the three paved parking areas.

Although the official trailhead to Benton Falls begins near the dam for McCamy Lake, I included the short distance from the nearest parking area to the trailhead in my GPS route. The hike is 3.2 miles roundtrip from the end of the parking area. The first 1.5 miles only descends 125 feet for an average grade of 1.6%. However, the final 650 feet of the trail descends nearly 100 feet for an average grade of about 15%. This isn't as strenuous as it might first seem as nearly the entire descent is a series of stairs and constructed stone and timber surfaces.

I visited in early June 2017 on a cloudy weekday late afternoon. Although I met several people on the trail, I had the falls to myself during my visit. Because of recent rains, Rock Creek had sufficient flow for the waterfall to spread across the entire breadth of the rock formation. The flow is much reduced during drier seasons.

Topographic map with GPS route

Elevation profile

Parksville Lake and Sugarloaf Mountain from Lakeview Overlook

Big Frog Mountain from Chilhowee Overlook

Gazebo Overlook

Tennessee Valley

Fee Station and Information Kiosk

One of three parking areas for day use visitors

Picnic area

Trailhead at end of parking area

Trailhead kiosk

Wide path across the dam

McCamy Lake

Wide path with some rocks and roots

Wide, sandy path


Rosebay rhododendron (Rhododendron maximum) flowers

Rock outcrop

Trail widened as hikers go around muddy area

More rosebay rhododendron

Sign denoting side trail to falls

Steeper than previous trail

Timber stairs

Stone walkway

Fence at top of falls

View from fence

Log fence prevents shortcuts

Switchback with stone steps

Stone steps lead down to creek

Benton Falls from the stone stairs

Benton Falls


A fee of $3 per vehicle per day is required for entry to Chilhowee Recreation Area in Cherokee National Forest.

The waterfall website is https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/cherokee/recarea/?recid=35110.
The Chilhowee Recreation Area website is https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/cherokee/recreation/recarea?recid=35078&actid=24.
The forest website is https://www.fs.usda.gov/cherokee.

Friday, June 9, 2017

Climbers Loop Trail at Foster Falls - South Cumberland State Park


After hiking 0.35 miles down to the base of Foster Falls from the parking lot, I decided to follow the Climbers Loop Trail downstream along the base of the cliff to the first exit (or access depending on the direction traveled) out of Robinson Cove. The 1.55 mile hike out completed a 1.9 mile loop. I hiked the trail in early June 2017. I wrote about the overlook and the descent to the base of the falls here.

Topographic map with GPS route

Climbers loop elevation profile from base of falls to parking area

Little Gizzard Creek

Stepping stones

Along the base of the cliff

Cliff face

More steps

A large slab fell off long ago

Smaller rocks also fall off

Missing a layer

There is a trail through here

Time to start climbing out

Seemingly never-ending stairs

Approaching the top

Looking back

Junction with the Fiery Gizzard Trail

Easy hiking compared to the boulder fields below

Boardwalks allow for an even faster pace

Crossing a dry creek bed

Raised planks for traversing a swampy area

Life is tenacious as this tree growing out of a rock demonstrates

Foster Falls and an unnamed stream fall

Both tiers of the unnamed stream falls

Beginning the descent to the creek crossing

Approaching the creek

Steel bridge over Little Gizzard Creek above the falls

View downstream

View upstream

Climbing back to the top of the plateau

Cable fence to prevent fatal falls

Looking across the cove

The upper falls of the unnamed stream

Flowing over the edge...

...about 120 feet to the rocks below

Stream bypassed the drainage culvert

Entry to South Cumberland State Park is free.

The park website is http://tnstateparks.com/parks/about/south-cumberland.